The runways were opulent and set the stage for exhibiting the clothes, which were no less than pieces of art themselves
Milan Fashion Week is the first of the big four—namely Milan, Paris, New York, and London. It carries the responsibility of setting the tone for sartorial choices worldwide for an entire year.
Held from January 12th to January 16th this year, the most iconic names in menswear presented their latest designs with creative new runway ideas. The runways themselves were opulent and set the stage for exhibiting the clothes, which were no less than pieces of art themselves.
Day 1 began with the Boglioli showcase, a brand that describes itself as “dressed-down tailoring.” Their Fall/Winter 24 collection had an interesting collaboration with Steinway & Sons, a handcrafted piano store that began in 1853. Boglioli aimed to create clothes that weave a duet, where each stitch was harmonized with a pianist’s touch. The jackets in the collection were wearable luxury, easy on the eyes, and made with buttery fabrics.
The Gucci show in the afternoon had Creative Director Sabato De Sarno emphasize the craftsmanship behind the fashionhouse’s icons with new silhouettes that portrayed contemporaneity with refinement.
Coats and jackets were paired with the new Horsebit loafers featuring creeper soles. Whether mirroring precise silhouettes or echoing colors and fabrics, each look from the Fall/Winter 2024 men’s fashion show reflected those from Sabato De Sarno’s debut women’s collection when he introduced a new Gucci wardrobe.
Gucci was successful in introducing a highly curated wardrobe, including a reinterpretation of their signature crescent-shaped bag from the 1950s and a new GG monogram slightly offset with a drop shadow to create a sense of dimension. The music at the show was directed and mixed by LA-based artist Mark Ronson.
The day concluded with the DSquared2 show, with Dean and Dan Caten thirty years into their careers but still the most creative of the bunch. The line-up of models featured twins who walked right after one another, giving the illusion of the same person walking the runway after they were seen in different outfits moments ago.
The collection itself saw the brand’s signature voice—flashy, Y2K-inspired—with oversized faux fur, and accessories covered with bling and ravaged material. The twin designers themselves wowed the audience, with Dean stepping onto the runway in full drag.
The Dolce & Gabbana show on day 2 was an invitation to experience modern masculinity manifested through geometric lines and outerwear in intense shades of black. Model Rapha Keijzer wore a short double-breasted jacket in fully embroidered satin, featuring black dégradé rhinestones from the shoulders, paired with a black rhinestone tank top and slim trousers. Another model, Seong Jun, wore a silk twill leopard print shirt in the new grey shade paired with slim trousers. The look was completed with black patent derby shoes. The show had music composed and performed by Toby Anderson and Rob Lewis.
The Prada show on day 3 was the busiest of them all, with their various worldwide ambassadors collectively drawing in massive buzz. The celebrities in attendance included James McAvoy, Jaewook Lee, Troye Sivan, Karina, Win Metawin, Manu Rios, and Jake Gyllenhaal. The set design contrasted an office interior with a natural landscape. The clothes were an ode to the brand’s dedication to clean silhouettes, and the show was held at Fondazione Prada’s Deposito.
Day 4 saw New Delhi-based designer Dhruv Kapur’s return to Milan Fashion Week, and his collection combined high school-reminiscent chic athleisure with intergalactic mayhem. The outfits coming down the runway were structured to create a utopian world where two opposing styles come together for an eventuality that sees harmony. Indian model Jojo Singh told Rolling Stone India about his experience walking the ramp as “surreal.”
The day ended with the Zegna show, which saw versatile pieces transformed into an array of outfits that encourage freedom and effortlessness. Featuring the new Triple Stitch Monte Shoes and Il Conte Jacket, the brand’s ever-evolving silhouettes were achieved through artful layering and a dimensional approach to color.
The Milan Fashion Week 2024 ended with an after-party at Club Plastic with a live performance by Italian musician Popa.
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