‘Binyeo’: The Korean Hairpin, a Mainstay in Period K-Dramas

It’s interesting, how well jewelry may transcend cultural barriers; the Binyeo, for instance, is a manifestation of such crossings that connect people globally. The other day, I saw my mom braiding a bun and slipping a patterned hairpin while preparing for an event. The gorgeous bling, she said, was purchased from Kurseong last year. “That does resemble a Binyeo,” I said. I’ve seen them a lot in period K-dramas.

The Korean Binyeo is essentially their traditional hairpin. It can be long or U-shaped and be used to both embellish and secure the hair buns intact. Appearing in the Goryo, Joseon, and Silla kingdoms of Korean history, the ornament was perhaps designed with both genders in mind. But in time, as social mores evolved, the Binyeo ended up being restricted to women.

A crucial part of Korean jewelry throughout the three-kingdom era, it wasn’t just an aesthetic delight but disclosed a person’s identity, class, and beyond. That explains why we see historical K-drama characters sporting a variety of Binyeos.

The reign of King Yeongjo in the Joseon Dynasty saw the rise of Binyeo. As part of a custom that marked their transition into adulthood, girls would wear Binyeos in their hair. In marriages, the bride would get a Binyeo as a token of love from the groom, per an Asia Society article, and it was also a tool at the time for romantic rendezvous.

This could be a fallacy; I’m not sure though—the Binyeo was supposed to have an impact on the deaths of a female’s parents. Some would remove them and let their hair fall as a sort of reparation for their belief that they were to blame for the loss. Later, they would make a hair bun and swap out their Binyeo for a wooden one that would be used for the next few years.

The hierarchical structure of the Silla dynasty banned the use of Binyeo in keeping with social division along racial lines. When it came to shapes, commoners were limited, while the imperial family had access to a wide variety of Binyeos. They replaced the wigs worn by many married women as a symbol of their social status.

Gold and silver Binyeos were associated with the nobility, while widows wore wooden Binyeos. The circular bottoms of these hairpins represented wealth, health, and vitality and were carefully crafted to fit seasons, events, daily wear, and age.

In an interview with The Korea Times, noted jewelry designer Kim Soung-eun explained that phoenix Binyeos were worn by queens and princesses in the Joseon Dynasty. Her creations have been featured in several historical K-dramas. Royal concubines, on the other hand, donned lovebird Binyeos. The phoenix Binyeo, she said, represents ambition, passion, and the pursuit of power, as exemplified by Seol In-ah in the immensely popular K-drama Mr. Queen (2020-2021), where she plays Jo Hwa-jin, Royal Noble Consort Ui, King Cheoljong’s concubine and first love.

Binyeo has a Chinese equivalent, Ji, a Chinese hair stick, and a Japanese equivalent, Kanzashi, a variety of hair ornaments including hairpins, clips, fabric flowers, and clips. Similar hairpins, for that matter, have emerged through the ages, acting as icons and vital elements of different faiths and cultures.