The Journey to Midgard: Midgardsblot 2022

It was an honor and beyond as I stepped onto the sacred grounds of Borre, Norway, a place where the lessons of the past meet minds of the present, where culture and history are revered and where the magic of Mother Earth truly comes alive, all to the powerful sounds of music that lead you into a different realm.

This is no ordinary gathering, in fact, I shy away from using the word festival. From historical reenactments and in-depth talks, to folk music, black metal and camping by the ocean, Midgardsblot is a celebration like no other of culture and traditions, music and art, of life and death.

With the inaugural edition being held in 2015, the event has grown from strength to strength over time. Despite the difficulties of the last two years, it was amazing to see people from all parts of the world coming together for the same reason: music. The lineups have always been something of a blissful Nordic dream and this year’s topped them all.

I was ridiculously excited for the numerous black metal bands this year which perfectly balanced out all the nordic folk/metal as well as more traditional music. Experimental collective Heilung, American avant-garde, metal band Zeal and Ardor, Greek metal act Rotting Christ, Denmark’s Myrkur, Norway’s Nordic folk treasure Wardruna, heavy metal act Borknagar and more were on the bill.

Of course, much can be said about the unmatched location where it’s held. The Midgard Viking Centre and Museum is an excellent beginning and entry to those attending as it has plenty of information regarding the Viking burial mounds, the history around the site and some things to get you prepared for the three-day festival.  There’s a lot to learn here and this is where the Mimir Talks are held. I spent some time wandering through the venues and was fascinated to find the Gildehallen, a magnificent reconstruction of a Viking age feast hall and a smaller venue. The organizers have truly made this an experience wherein you can feel the presence of the past in every corner, wherever you are.

Chapter I: Revival, Resurrection

It felt amazing to be at a music festival again in one of the most beautiful countries I’ve ever visited. After two very long, difficult years, live music is back and thriving, and there was no greater place to celebrate that than at Midgardsblot. Everything from collecting my wristbands and little festival booklets, seeing the hordes of black shirts and metal vests (and in this case, Viking clothes) pitching their tents and exploring the place, the energy was exhilarating to say the least.

The excitement was real when the gates to ‘Valhalla’, the main festival area, finally opened, with people – Bloters as they’re called – gathering for the opening ceremony which was truly, a sight to behold.

The ritual circle was ready with the magnificent and commanding wooden deities Odin and Freyja standing tall, surrounded by their followers. The powerful sounds of the drums and chanting began as Norway’s folk act Folket Bortafor Nordavinden led us through the opening ceremony

Most ancient civilizations have always used fire or water to begin their rituals, or all five elements present, especially from my experience growing up in a traditional Hindu household. It is a truly beautiful way to connect with nature. However, a blot is a blood ritual. In ancient times, animals were sacrificed and they still are. But much to my relief, a vegan-friendly alternative was used and while it may not be seen as the ‘real deal’,  it was wonderful to see people scream and shout, release their thoughts, prayers, feelings and emotions as they bowed down to the Gods, honoring the past, present and future. Thus began Midgardsblot 2022.

Chapter II: Hail Satan

Being in Norway, it comes as no surprise that Midgardsblot sees some of the greatest black metal acts gather, allowing those present to delve deeper into a heavier, more raw and occult world of music. While the name of this chapter may seem cliche, it is significant in more ways than one. Satan and occultism don’t just represent ‘the Devil’ but the darker, sometimes more important truths of life. Bands such as Lucifer’s Child, Rotting Christ and Urgehal on this year’s line-up, and others such as Mayhem, GAAHL’S WYRD having performed at past Midgardsblot editions are testament to this.

The proceedings began on the first day, with the phenomenal Danish blackened doom outfit Konvent. Their delivery was powerful and fierce, with vocalist Rikke Emilie List’s gutturals summoning the souls of those that had gathered. Konvent created the perfect union between the rawness of black metal and funeral doom.

It was only a few weeks prior to my being in Norway that I saw Mork perform at Wacken, albeit only briefly and I was looking forward to seeing them once again. Staying true to their roots, the Norwegian black metal act were a force to be reckoned with from the very start of their diabolical performance, quite reminiscent of Satyricon at times. The band from Halden, who have been around since 2004, had people breaking into small groups of windmills and slowly stepping into festival mode, the black metal way. They deliver elements of that ‘true kvlt black metal’ style, but at times venture into more melodic territory which clearly show that they are unafraid to redefine the genre.

While Mork brought the corpse paint and kvlt on day one, Lucfier’s Child were the first band on day two and the first seen on the main Helheim stage. Black metal from the darkest part of Athens, this four-piece band truly lived up to their own name and the stage’s name. They were a relentless force from the very start and while the crowds were slow to come in at first, the place was filled with devil horns, black metal jackets and the sounds of their latest split record Under Satan’s Wrath. Lucifer’s Child bring forth music that serves to draw you into the dark world of occultist ideology by throwing light on how powerful it truly is. Blast beats galore and some memorable riffs coupled with vocalist Mario Dupont’s near-demonic growls and deadly stage presence made this a truly incredible performance.

It wasn’t long before I found myself back at Helheim to see the ominous Gaerea. The extreme metal band from Portugal were conjuring sounds straight from the pits of hell, creating an atmosphere that had the crowd in some sort of weird hypnosis. Enthralled by the half-hour Saga stories session at the Kaupangr Stage, I made it just in time to catch the last few minutes of Urgehal’s performance which was also some great Norwegian black metal to see.

The anticipation in the air before a headliner is intense; the silent battles at the barrier take place and this time I triumphed, for that is what Rotting Christ meant to me. Satan over introversion! That familiar intro of “Χ Ξ Σ (666)” began and it is not an untruth when I say, the crowd erupted into a deafening roar as the Greek metal pioneers came on stage.

The next 90 minutes were a blur; possibly from all the windmilling and headbanging and nothing but the sheer joy you feel when you see your favorite band. Rotting Christ played an explosive set and there were moshpits and limbs flailing all around as the band performed tracks from not only their newer releases but revisited their roots playing songs from Non Serviam and Thy Mighty Contract. I hope everyone gets to experience what I do every time I see Rotting Christ.

I then made my way past the Viking Battles and the sublime sounds of Wolvenwind towards the Helheim stage to see none other than Helheim themselves. Albeit, a bit strange to see a black metal band in the overwhelming brightness of an afternoon, they delivered a set that was worthy of withstanding any form of heat. Later, I made my way over to the Valhalla stage for Koldbrann who in the words of the Midgardsblot page, put on an immense display of relentless pitch-dark disharmony.

I have my lovely Norwegian friends Inger and Per to thank for introducing me to Ym:stammen, a band that were an absolute delight to see. This was their first live show in 23 years and there was no easy way to describe their whirlwind music. My best attempt would be Nordic, pop-laden, punk-inspired, folksy primitive rock. With their bind-rune backdrop, a saxophone (amongst an array of other instruments) and a whole lot of swag, the band broke into their first song which I could barely hear due to the intensity of cheers they received at the Valhalla stage.

Borknagar, one of the oldest and most prominent black metal acts from Norway, played an amazing set too despite the intensity of the sun on the final day of Midgardsblot. Seeing them live was a good opportunity to revisit this band, one who began with their roots in black metal but have now evolved into a much more melodic and atmospheric sound. There were quite a few tracks off their 2019 release True North which seemed fitting for where we were and a few older ones as well. I think what resonated with me most is how the band keeps things simple, a refreshing change.

Over at the Helheim stage, a deafening cheer rose as Zeal and Ardor erupted into the powerful “Death to the Holy.” Being in the presence of certain bands evokes so much thought and a rollercoaster of emotions within you. The Swiss/American avant-garde metal band is truly a force to be reckoned with. They powered through a treasure trove of a set for fans, old and new, being met with an overwhelming response from Bloters after every track. Frontman and founder of the band Manuel Gagneux then addressed the crowd: “It’s great to see all of you here tonight. I hope you don’t mind, we don’t talk much. But we appreciate you being here to partake in a different kind of ritual.” Choral chants, soaring harmonies and Gagneux’s gurgling vocals made for a perfect set in a perfect setting.

Chapter III: Of Runes, Rituals and Norse Gods

In India, crows represent the spirit of our ancestors, visiting us from another realm to impart wisdom or share a message. This was something that eventually paved my path towards Nordic mythology and paganism many moons ago. Being surrounded by people who have lived, breathed and studied this culture – runic inscriptions on stone or jewelry and the rich Viking Age history of Borre – truly fed my curious mind.

I made my way to the Mimir Talks lecture Hall. These are academic talks and lectures organized at the Viking Centre. In Norse mythology, Mimir is the keeper of the “well of wisdom” referred to as Mimisbrunnr, located deep down beneath one of the roots of the sacred world tree Yggdrasil. Mimir means ‘the wise one’, a fitting name for the series. This provided so much insight into various aspects of Nordic culture, Viking history, witchcraft and more. It’s also a great way to network as well as make connections between these topics and bands that base their lyrical themes and music on them.

While the talks go on till about 6 pm, it was nice to attend them in the morning and head to the stages in the afternoon for the shows. also great to see the Nordic Mythology Podcast live for the first time ever. The discussions were spontaneous and informative and really brought out some gems from some of the guest speakers on the panel. The hosts Dr. Mathias Nordvig and Daniel Farrand also conducted a music industry panel that had experts discussing various aspects of this business which was insightful and featured the likes of people such as veteran extreme metallers Enslaved’s co-founder Ivar Bjornson.

Wherever you are in Midgardsblot, you are encouraged to be you and to engage in what makes you feel connected. Arguably one of the highlights of my first day in Borre was witnessing a suspension ritual. As the story goes, Odin hung himself from the World Tree Yggdrasil in order to receive the runes which is mentioned in Havamal 139. Channeling the power and will of the Allfather, Tim Nancarrow was suspended from hooks piercing his body, following which he entered a completely meditative state. He called upon various members of the crowd, summoning them to the stage and doing a rune cast for them. It was one of the most incredible yet difficult things I’ve ever watched.

Intense but beautiful, I continued wandering on which is a nice thing about this event. You can take your time without running from stage to stage.  It was on one such wander through the shops that I ended up listening to the ethereal sounds of Runahild, and her absolutely enchanting voice and drum.

On day four of Midgardsblot, I wandered off into the Viking village Folksvangr. It was incredible to say the least, to see people in their finest clothes, living the way people did in the Viking Age. The Viking metal battles were held at the Valhalla stage just behind the feast hall, and with some time to wander around before the next band I wanted to see, I found myself on the outside of the battle ring, cheering the re-enactors on, as they took great pride in fighting each other “to the death.” It was also very insightful to see the Holmgang Sports hosted by Grimfrost as they take you through battles and duels and how it was done back in the Viking Age.

Chapter IV: Spirituality by the Sea

From the time I decided to attend Midgardsblot, I knew it would present me with the time and the opportunity to delve deeper into myself, my beliefs and my own spirituality. This, I feel, was a key aspect of my attendance at this festival. It is the perfect environment for one to feel a sense of belonging and a connection, whatever that may be.

Friday did seem to be a day of spiritual experiences all around. Nytt Land are a husband and wife duo from the cold, beautiful landscapes of Siberia. Anatoly and Natalya Pakhalenko transport you into another world with some of their enchanting tunes. Krzysztof Drabikowski’s Batushka proved to be one of the most incredible sets of my festival experience. I place it under this chapter for the sole reason that seeing Batushka live is indeed a spiritual journey of a different kind. The liturgy began as the Helheim stage was adorned with candles, the scent of sage and incense filling the air.  Above all else, there was something absolutely breathtaking about the union of black metal and Eastern Orthodox Christianity.

Taking over the Helheim stage on Saturday, Hindarfjall from Gothenburg were the epitome of a spiritual experience. Not knowing what to expect, I was pleasantly surprised to find a band of ten members gracing the stage, each with a different instrument in hand. What was fascinating to me was the incredible mindfulness with which you could see each member perform. There was an ethereal aura that surrounded the band as they gently but majestically brought to life, the traditions of the North through a powerful, and deep Scandinavian folk sound.

Early on at Midgardsblot, the standard was set by Wardruna’s performance on Thursday. From seeing a flock of geese form the shape of a W and fly over the stage just before they began, to being completely enamored, transported into a world far away from my own by their powerful music, this was a truly breathtaking experience, one that I had been waiting for, for a long time. The ecstatic cheers dipped into silence as the enchanting opening notes of their album Kvitravn were by founder Einar Selvik. Every moment of Wardruna’s was like a beautiful dream, as they soulfully drift from one song to the next, all the while sending you into an unbelievable meditative enlightenment of sorts. Songs such as “Solringen,” “Raidho” and “Odal” conveyed tranquility like no other, while you witness the plethora of instruments, both ancient and new, that create these magical sounds. But the highlight was when the humble Einar addressed the crowd. “This is not about your culture or my culture, this is universal, the music is universal.” With the closing notes of “Helvegen,” you could see tears, people locked in embrace, and in that moment I looked up at the sky and thanked my stars for where I was and for Wardruna.

Chapter V: An Ode to the Elements

At Midgardsblot, you are presented with the chance to be one with the elements. From wandering barefoot through the ancient burial grounds, and the gentle waves of the fjord that lines Borre, to the crackling flames of the bonfires at night and the air carrying the beautiful energy of song. If you like being surrounded by endless greenery as far as the eye can see and some of the most riveting music, this is the festival for you. It was beyond what I’d imagined it to be and needless to say I was and am very grateful.

I cannot say this enough, the lineup this year was beyond any Nordic music fans wildest dreams for many reasons but for me, it was a delight to see Myrkur and Eivor, both possessing voices that redefine divinity, both serenading the crowds with tales of old and as is the name of this chapter, an ode to the elements. Myrkur, a truly ethereal being, brought out all the gems from her Folksvangr release. She so seamlessly drifted from one instrument to another, making her performance a visual delight. Eivor was undoubtedly one of the most entertaining, stirring performances of the festival – and a favorite of many Bloters. The enigmatic singer-songwriter from the Faroe Islands emanates both, soulful expression and a certain lightheartedness that came through each song, some highlights being “Trollabundin” and “Ocean.” 

Midgardsblot had been the ultimate celebration to signal a difficult period in life, and to stand there awaiting the magnificent Heilung on the final day, was an experience that was beyond surreal. The experimental folk act’s opening ceremony was heartwarming to say the least with all of the band members, the hari warriors and crew coming on stage to form a ritual circle. There is no better way to describe Heilung and their art than the words ‘amplified history’. Every song forms a connection between the past and the present which is one of many things that has always drawn me towards them. From weaving the hypnotic sounds of ancient languages with the sounds of instrumentation that come from the Iron age (bones!) and from their surroundings, takes one back to their most primeval roots. 

Heilung are nowhere in the realm of being an ordinary band. They are beings of light and dark, here to bring Earthly musical rituals that allow you to transcend through time, space and reality. While I had the immense pleasure of being there for an exclusive listening session of their latest offering Drif, bringing their album Futha to life on stage was inexplicably magickal. Every song from Traust where Maria Franz’s sublime, soaring vocals and Kai-Uwe Faust’s magnificent chants come together to create something so surreal, not to mention the underlying significance of theatrical elements included in their set. An imprisoned warrior held in shackles, only to be released by the power of music, love, nature and song, the rendition of a Haka, a traditional Maori war cry in the form of Hakkerskaldyr and seeing Christopher Juul in what can only be regarded as a blissful meditative state throughout their performance, creating waves of sound from his corner on the stage, are just some of the highlights of seeing Heilung live. 

It is difficult to put in words what one feels and sees during such an evocative experience. However, what I can say is that Heilung, meaning ‘healing’ in old German, is exactly what they do.  This return to live music was truly felt throughout the festival and Heilung was the perfect end to it all. Midgardsblot, it’s organisers, crew, fans and of course all of the incredible bands for having me. Tusen Takk.